Saturday, October 20, 2012

Djibouti - Paris of Africa it is not for sure

I was excited to go to Horn of Africa, chance of seeing active volcano, rock churches, and festival plus hiking in the mountains in Ethiopia. With added bonus, I can visit Djibouti, my first stop and the off the beaten track Somaliland my last stop.
My flight was with Ethiopian Airlines, which provided the shortest and most direct of all the flights. It was not cheap, at $1,910, the most expensive I ever paid. I still have many internal flights to purchase, but I will do that when I get to Ethiopia as it is much cheaper to purchase the tickets while there. The price does not change if you purchase it way ahead of time or last minute (very convenient) and change fee is less than couple dollars or fee. Also Ethiopian Airlines had just been delivered a brand new Boeing 787 Dreamliner, and I was hoping to be on it on the outbound flight, but their schedule was pushed back due to delay in delivery of the 2nd Dreamliner. But the Boeing 777 was very nice with your personal touch screen, so I watched few movies in between few naps. The service on the plane was average: flight attendants have better attitude than it US counterpart, but not that warmth of the top tier airlines. As for food, it was terrible. It reminded me of what the airline food is like back in the 80s. I was sitting in the row with a Zimbabwean girl from Utah who is going back for a home visit and a guy from Montreal who is traveling with friends.
The direct flight from Washington to Addis Ababa is about 13.5 hours and arrives @ 7:45AM, and then it is about 1 hour and 15 minutes layover for a short flight to Djibouti City, Djibouti. The time difference was plus 7 hours. We arrived a little early, and were bused over to the domestic terminal even though Djibouti is not part of Ethiopia. I was looking around to see if there were other tourists going my way, but other than couple American military personnel and some businessmen, there were no backpackers.
Djibouti is a French speaking country and home to a US military base, which is obvious as soon as you landed. The US military aircrafts shared the same airport. Most of people of the country live in the capital which sits on the east side of Gulf of Aden. Its economy is mostly service based as it sits in a strategic location. Its landscape is mostly hot desert and it was certainly hot when I arrived at 100F and hot sun. The country is expensive even by African standard; you pay good money for average service and accommodation.
Since Somalia to the south and Yemen across the gulf are both close, this explains the presence of US military. When I was leaving the country, I saw a drone landed at the airport; I was wondering if some no good terrorists were killed by it.
At immigration and custom area, I was asked by a very rude custom official why I am here; being a tourist apparently is not enough. In additional to my passport he wanted my driver’s license! Passport is international recognized official document and why in world would I bring my driver’s license, this guy must not having a good day at home, maybe he was yelled at by his wife or someone, now he is exercise his power. After you passed his scrutiny, you wait in another line to get the visa, which is $60 regardless how many days, for me I will be staying only 2 days, it will be very expensive; People in line talked how inefficient Africa is.
Once I got my visa and luggage, I went to look for exchange bureaus onsite but they were closed. So I headed toward taxi stand and agreed upon inflated rate in US$ and got into a terrible looking hot taxi to Africa hotel, which I heard from someone online as being decent and relatively cheap in this expensive country. The road to my hotel looked very dirty with dust, and trash, and nasty looking standing water in many places. The taxi driver is actually from Somaliland and he said he would give his family’s telephone number, but never did instead he gave me his number when I was checking into my hotel so I can call him if I need a taxi. I didn’t have a good feeling about him and I think he told the hotel that he brought me here (for commission) even though I was the one who mentioned to come here.
The receptionist was very friendly, offered to run errands, but I declined as I am afraid he will ask for tips and I am very capable of doing it myself. The room is big but construction quality on this relatively new hotel was lousy, at $36/night it is considered a bargain in the city. The in-room AC unit was adequate if you close the un-insulated bathroom.  It is located African Quarter part of the city and very close to the market. After unpacked my pack I was out to explore the city center and look for atm and tour agencies. But as I found out, businesses here close between 12-4PM and then open until 7PM. Unable to get most things done, I proceeded to get money from atm, buy water and tooth brush which I forgot to pack, and some fruits, but no food. Eventually it got too hot and I went back to hotel hungry to cool off and have a shower. I didn’t see restaurants with crowds, so I just had some cookies I brought from states instead. During my walk to the European Quarter part of the city, I witnessed even more dirty and smelly streets: the stench of urine, rotting garbage, feces, and nasty pool of water. It can be overwhelming in the high heat. While resting, I decided if I can’t find any tourists to share cost to visit Lake Assal, the lowest point in Africa at 155 meters (509 feet) below sea level that is not too far from the city, I will leave tomorrow morning, one day earlier than I had planned.
Before I headed back out to the tour agencies, I went up to the roof top of the hotel. It provided a good view of the surrounding area. Then I went back out to the stinky and dirty streets, but it was lot busier, as the sun was getting lower. I had scouted out the tour agencies in the European Quarter earlier in the day, but now they were open for business. Both of the agencies quoted a day tour rate of around $300 and they have no other tourists for tomorrow. Their price for a day trip to the nearby salt lake is just crazy, with that bad news I went to the Ethiopian Airlines office to have my ticket changed without any fee.  Without the extra day, I decided just to walk around the city a bit now that sun was lower and less hot. I went over to see the Gulf of Aden; the water looked dirty from where I was at and few of the people there looked shady, so I left very quickly. I headed back toward city central to look for a place to eat. I passed some kids playing ping pong on the street next to a foul looking stagnant pool of water. They asked if I want to play but I declined as I was worried about the hygiene of the ball and paddle.
As I was walking back toward center of the city I paid close attention to restaurants with people eating, but I didn’t see anything and the couple restaurants listed in the Lonely Planet guide were not at where it supposed to be; probably closed. Eventually I ended up in my hotel and hungry, so I asked the receptionist where can I find something to eat around the hotel. He had a guide take me to a nearby restaurant that but there was no one in it so opted for finding another one nearby where lots people were eating but upon close inspection, the food they were eating didn’t look yummy at all – tired and deflated I went back to the hotel and ate my granola bars, beef jerky, cookies, fruits while watching TV before calling it a night early.
I woke up early due to the time differences, and my mission before my flight to Addis was to find a place to eat breakfast and take some pictures of the city center before the sun get too high and hot. The streets weren’t busy yet, so taking photos was easy, the hard part was to find good and interesting subjects, not too many around. While I was doing that, I also on the lookout for a place to eat breakfast, but the couple places I checked they only serve drinks no and real meals. As I was about to give up and head back to my hotel, I finally saw a restaurant where people are eating and food looked yummy, may be it was the hunger, but I didn’t cared and I had hot breakfast with meat and rice. Actually someone at the next table helped me with ordering, I went with chicken and rice with sweet milk tea and a glass of fresh made juice afterward; all for about $6. The local guy who helped me spoke very good English and was studying to be a doctor in St Petersburg, Russia. He returned home for a week to take care of some family business. He told me his dream is one day to practice medicine in good old USA.
Finally with a happy tummy, I headed back to my hotel for a shower and packing. I had the hotel call a taxi for me for 1,000 Djibouti francs, which was half what I paid for coming in. I was happy to leave this expensive, dirty, and hot country. Other than say I have been Djibouti, there is nothing to say about this country unless you want to over pay for things. I would not recommend to budget backpackers unless you are in a group of say 3-4 people so you can share the high cost.

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