It didn’t look too far from my hotel and since it was little
brisk on a bright sunny morning, I decided to walk there, and it was a nice
walk and without too many hassles from the locals. I was looking for some old
Armenian styled houses mentioned in the Brandt’s guide, but I didn’t have much
luck, maybe I saw one that I think might be Armenian. I gave up and went on to
check out Kiddist Maryam Church. It was nice church and I wasn’t sure if I can
take photos since I read in the book, one should ask for permission, but for
people only? Anyway I asked, the person at the gate said yes.
As I went around the church, I tall sleek young lad, called Fred
approached and asked me if he can of any help and am I interested in a guide
for the churches and the Meskel (finding the true cross) festival this evening
at the Meskel Square with VIP pass. That got my attention, as I already planned
to go see the Meskel festival and didn’t know about the VIP pass. So knowing
this is not a free service, I told Fred right up front about what I expected
from a guide – honesty. So we agree on a price for a set of services he
promised. Fred will show me three churches as well get me the VIP pass at the
resident of Patriarch of Ethiopian Church for 500birr including the 200 birr ($21)
for the pass (Fred said tour agency is charging $40 for the pass).
After waiting for a little bit for the Patriarch’s office to
be opened, we went upstairs to the office where they were supposed to give out
passes to the Meskel festival. There were other people waiting there already,
and the office was still closed. Finally the person in charge arrived and
everyone swarmed in, but he went into a room and closed the door. The guy
looked unhappy, and after a short while he came out of the office and brush off
anyone who approached him and was gone. Fred tried to get him to stop and talk
to him, but he would have none of it. Fred told me, this guy had gave out all
the passes yesterday, even though some of the tour agencies filed for the
passes, they weren’t able to get it either. And Fred also said this guy do this
every year, sounded like someone on a power trip. All the other pass seekers
left after the unsuccessful encounter. But Fred with his persistent got a tip
from a priest who worked there to wait for the acting Patriarch Abune Nathaniel
of Ethiopian Church and petition to him directly for a pass. So when acting
Patriarch arrived, we greeted him and followed to his office. He first has
prayer with his staff members as we bow our heads. Then finally he was ready to
hear our plea, and Fred made his case, and we were handed the precious passes.
I thanked the acting Patriarch profusely.
With passes in hand, we head to our first stop – Wutma hotel
restaurant for breakfast. His friend drove us there. Fred offered to buy
everyone breakfast, I guess the big fee he will earn today is making him
generous. While they ordered traditional Ethiopian food, I opted for rice/eggs
since my stomach was still troubling me. Fred then starts to tell me about he
wants some wildlife video tapes from say National Geographic to show tourists
as part of his business plan. He said he would send me the money once he
receives it. I played along and said just give the address. He also said I
could goto his parents place this evening after the Meskel Festival and continues
the celebration with his family and friends and may even stay there overnight.
I said I might be interested but not the overnight part as I already paid for
my overnight accommodation and arranged taxi pickup at Baro. When I mentioned I
am interested in buying some Ethiopian coffee later in my trip, he said I
should call him up when I get back to Addis, and he can find me good and cheap
coffee. Of course one can’t believe a smooth talking sleek guy like Fred too
much. I saw few of his kind in my travels (Manolo in Tacuba,
El Salvador, come to my mind). And they usually come with a story of foreign
girlfriend(s), Fred is no exception, he said a married woman in France is keeping
on calling him.
Anyway, our first church is Kidus Gyorgis Church, founded by
Menelik in 1896, where subsequent emperors of Ethiopia were crowned here. We
then head to Kidist Selassie church where Emperor Selassie and his wife are
buried. Other famous Ethiopians are also buried here, including late president
Meles and patriarch Abune Paulos. At this point Fred suggest we take a break
for lunch, and that I pay him some of the fee now, so we stopped in a café to
make the handover, he ordered us sodas. He said we will meet up in Wutma hotel
around 2PM before heading to the other church and Meskel festival.
So I went back to my hotel and then got some small coins for
my collection from a nearby bank, and finally got some pastry for tomorrow
morning’s early flight (5:30AM pick by Taxi). At this point my stomach was definitely
not happy. At around 2, I went over to Wutma, and Fred was having a shave at
the barber shop next door. He said we still have time until the festival start
(no mention of the 3rd church, but I didn’t want to mention it
either as I am ok with not visiting it), so he said I can get a haircut and
wash there for about $4, so I said ok since my hair is getting long and going
be in the hot desert for the next 4 days. The haircut turned out to be nice,
much better than the one I got in Honduras. After the haircut, my stomach just
completely gave out, and I worried for the Meskel festival as we will be out
for a long while. Something with Ethiopian food or water, I could not get used
to it. After this I stick mostly rice and spaghetti .
When I finally ready to goto Meskel festival, Fred has found
another tourist (British I think, who just arrived) and his guide. Fred was
trying to sell his pass to this tourist! He asked me not to tell how much I
paid for the pass or how we got it, too sleek for me. So all 4 of us started
our walk toward Meskel Square, along the way we saw various neighborhoods with
the smaller version of Meskel bonfire that they will set off tonight. There
were other locals walking to the square as well. Just as we arrived at the
checkpoint for the VIP pass holder, my stomach decided to act up again, so we
headed straight to the hotel just inside the checkpoint, and the first toilet I
went in was nasty, so I went for another one. Thankfully that was my last one,
and I was ok throughout the festival. At this point the other tourist decided
he does not want to goto the VIP section, so only Fred and I went in.
The festival was already started, and all the VIPs were
sitting in the grandstand area, but I told Fred if I can get close to the
dancers/singers and bonfire tree, so he asked the soldiers, and convinced them
to let me be right next to action along with some of photographers/videographers.
I ended up staying there the whole time.
Overall the ceremony was nice, but a bit long on the procession
part as each group performed their song and dance in front of the VIP sections.
I got bored like many other people, so we just walked around the ground and
take photos of the priests and pilgrims in their nice dresses and costumes.
There were TV crews around, and we even got interviewed. I had to say a little
white lie as how friendly the Ethiopian people are, which technically are true,
but many of the “friendly” gestures are not genuine as they expected/demanded ridiculous
amount of money in return after the fact. But being a good visitor, I spoke no
evil of the country to the TV crew, besides I was enjoying the festival.
The event climaxed in the end with setting of the bonfire by
the priests. After that mass crowd headed for home and we walked for a while,
then decided to take a taxi back. There was no mention of visiting Fred’s parents’
house for after party, I gave Fred the remaining amount of the fee I owed him
and 50 bir ($3) of tips as he did fight hard to get thing done despite his “lazy”
style.
Back at the hotel, I went back to Taitu hotel for dinner, and
I saw the South African there, he said he didn’t have much luck in securing his
visas, only one, as most of the places were closed early today. After dinner it
was time for me to goto bed to the loud club music as I needed to get up early
tomorrow morning for my flight to Mekele for the start of Danakil tour.
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